The Ignored
I saw a woman get attacked yesterday. Hold your assumptions for a second: It wasn't in Tahrir Square, it was at the Sphinx.
She was arguing with a vendor who was selling these super kitsch beaded head-dresses, like you'd expect to see on a Cleopatra Halloween costume? They were yelling in Arabic, so I didn't understand what the hell it was about, although so far that's not a fresh experience here. But the high pitched scream that came when he whipped her across the face with the beaded thing, that was new. It reminded me of working at camp or CCDC. There is all kinds of benign yelling and screaming all the time, but then there is that noise turns you rigid and your head shoots up like a meerkat's because something's broken or someone's bleeding. Her hand came away from her face crimson. He'd cut her all the way down the left side of her face.
I have felt safe all over Cairo. In the markets, at night between bars, in cabs at 2AM. But since we stepped off the buses at the Pyramid site, I felt vulnerable, exposed and simultaneously desperately pawed at and violently unwelcome. They descended upon us as soon as we disembarked. I should have known, bringing 100 people to Giza. People beg me for money all the time in Portland and for the most part, it's no different here. Although instead of cardboard signs they try and "sell" you tissue or a clean windshield. And they send their kids after you. It's an awfully strange skill set for a 6 year old: manipulating tourists. It's irksome, but not frightening. The myriad of men on camels, horses, on foot coming at you with invitations, pleads, demands. It's overwhelming, but I don't mind otherwise. But when I ignore the pan-handlers back home, they just sort of ignore me in return. Here it pisses them off and I suspect it is because when I ignore the poor here, it scratches at old wounds . . .
We came with tourism police, per regulations. We tried to avoid it, but it appears we didn't have a choice. And I don't know if it did more harm than good because when he flashed his sidearm, the response was palatable.
It helped matters when we dispersed a little and explored the site. I work with the most intense breed of world travelers and many had already been here. It's very clear to me that the human traffic at the Pyramids has supported a large number of the cities poor, and the effect of the revolution is acute here. The hotel is empty, but the people are paid so long as it stays open. They're just bored. The Pyramids are empty and these people aren't eating. They have likely been through generations of disenfranchisement and little access to resources and this revolution, that has been coded as a brilliant boon for democracy, freedom and engagement, has only left these people with less.
During the height of the violence a year ago, the camel keepers and horse owners were paid to ride into the square and beat the protesters to try and clear them out. They were then tagged as enemies of the Arab Awakening. For better or worse, this revolution has passed these people by. And it will probably be a few generations more before whatever the Egyptians manage to make of this thing, trickles down to benefit these people.
They're angry. And they're paranoid. We had our videographer taking video of us for internal communications. But 15 men descended upon our bus to demand that she get out and show them the tapes. They tried to take it strait out, but again, I work with some savvy savvy people. This groups claimed to be worried that we were making a documentary. Trading on their most precious resource. Stealing from them. It also doesn't help that many Egyptians believe that Americans all work for the US government and have come here with a clandestine and sinister purpose. A while back, two tourists were taking photos in the city, and were taken into custody. Demanded that they sign documents written in Arabic. The documents stated they had come to Egypt as spies and were taking pictures of government buildings on assignment of the CIA. I don't take my camera out anymore in public. The reaction is harsh and immediate.
After the incident at the Sphinx, we were supposed to travel to the bazaar nearby. The woman was still screaming behind me when I told the tour guides we'd be going back to the hotel. They tried to convince me otherwise. I ignored them.
She was arguing with a vendor who was selling these super kitsch beaded head-dresses, like you'd expect to see on a Cleopatra Halloween costume? They were yelling in Arabic, so I didn't understand what the hell it was about, although so far that's not a fresh experience here. But the high pitched scream that came when he whipped her across the face with the beaded thing, that was new. It reminded me of working at camp or CCDC. There is all kinds of benign yelling and screaming all the time, but then there is that noise turns you rigid and your head shoots up like a meerkat's because something's broken or someone's bleeding. Her hand came away from her face crimson. He'd cut her all the way down the left side of her face.
I have felt safe all over Cairo. In the markets, at night between bars, in cabs at 2AM. But since we stepped off the buses at the Pyramid site, I felt vulnerable, exposed and simultaneously desperately pawed at and violently unwelcome. They descended upon us as soon as we disembarked. I should have known, bringing 100 people to Giza. People beg me for money all the time in Portland and for the most part, it's no different here. Although instead of cardboard signs they try and "sell" you tissue or a clean windshield. And they send their kids after you. It's an awfully strange skill set for a 6 year old: manipulating tourists. It's irksome, but not frightening. The myriad of men on camels, horses, on foot coming at you with invitations, pleads, demands. It's overwhelming, but I don't mind otherwise. But when I ignore the pan-handlers back home, they just sort of ignore me in return. Here it pisses them off and I suspect it is because when I ignore the poor here, it scratches at old wounds . . .
We came with tourism police, per regulations. We tried to avoid it, but it appears we didn't have a choice. And I don't know if it did more harm than good because when he flashed his sidearm, the response was palatable.
It helped matters when we dispersed a little and explored the site. I work with the most intense breed of world travelers and many had already been here. It's very clear to me that the human traffic at the Pyramids has supported a large number of the cities poor, and the effect of the revolution is acute here. The hotel is empty, but the people are paid so long as it stays open. They're just bored. The Pyramids are empty and these people aren't eating. They have likely been through generations of disenfranchisement and little access to resources and this revolution, that has been coded as a brilliant boon for democracy, freedom and engagement, has only left these people with less.
During the height of the violence a year ago, the camel keepers and horse owners were paid to ride into the square and beat the protesters to try and clear them out. They were then tagged as enemies of the Arab Awakening. For better or worse, this revolution has passed these people by. And it will probably be a few generations more before whatever the Egyptians manage to make of this thing, trickles down to benefit these people.
They're angry. And they're paranoid. We had our videographer taking video of us for internal communications. But 15 men descended upon our bus to demand that she get out and show them the tapes. They tried to take it strait out, but again, I work with some savvy savvy people. This groups claimed to be worried that we were making a documentary. Trading on their most precious resource. Stealing from them. It also doesn't help that many Egyptians believe that Americans all work for the US government and have come here with a clandestine and sinister purpose. A while back, two tourists were taking photos in the city, and were taken into custody. Demanded that they sign documents written in Arabic. The documents stated they had come to Egypt as spies and were taking pictures of government buildings on assignment of the CIA. I don't take my camera out anymore in public. The reaction is harsh and immediate.
After the incident at the Sphinx, we were supposed to travel to the bazaar nearby. The woman was still screaming behind me when I told the tour guides we'd be going back to the hotel. They tried to convince me otherwise. I ignored them.
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